Peak Season Tomatoes
They're back! Tomatoes are innocent and good for you!
Mr. Canales does something surprising when he makes sauce: He sprinkles the leaves attached to the tomatoes into the pot. Several years ago, after discovering that tomato leaves and stems make a tasty flavoring, but concerned about the safety of using them, Mr. Canales consulted food-science writer Harold McGee, who claims that the leaves and stems are safe and even healthy to use in cooking. However, this is an iconoclastic view in the tomato world -- other experts express doubts about the practice because they say the leaves and stems contain toxic compounds.
Another rebellious act in Mr. Canales's kitchen: a refusal to discard the gel-sack within a tomato. Classic French technique often requires that tomatoes be cored, skinned and seeded before being chopped. That's foolhardy, Mr. Canales says -- the gel is "the money" in the tomato, full of amino acids that create a rich, satisfying taste.Follow on here to get some tips on making a great "tomato confit", and watch the video on selecting the right tomatoes.

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